The science of reloading part 4 – Loading your first rounds

Alright you have all your supplies and equipment picked out and set up on your new bench so let’s get started!!! While you were setting up your bench hopefully you put your brass in the tumbler to clean it. If not that’s okay go ahead and do that now…. To clean your brass you want to run it for at least 30 to 45 minutes to clean it and up to a couple of hours to really get it shiny. Okay your brass is clean and shiny now let’s pull it out and separate it from all the media so we can start loading.

Now that you have your brass clean it’s time to size and deprime. If you have new brass you still need to do this step you just won’t be depriming. So 1st thing you want to do is set your die (instructions for this should have come with your die) once you have your die set you want to lube your cases. My preference is still spray lube but if you use a lube pad or just wipe it on the non spray types can be put on too thick and that will cause small dents in the neck of the case if this happens it’s ok you can still use the case just put less lube on the next one. You also shouldn’t have to put a lot of force on your press it will take time and practice to see exactly what it feels like and you will get the feel for it so you don’t get a case stuck in the die.

Now that you have your case cleaned, sized and deprimed and possibly primed depending on your press and preference. For the next step you will need your reloading manual and calipers look up your max case length and your trim to length in your manual and measure your brass if it’s not between the two then you will need to trim your brass to trim length or if you have a a lot of inconsistency in the length of brass it’s not a bad idea to just trim it anyway (remember consistency equals accuracy) once you have it trimmed you will need to debur the brass to remove any sharp edges.

If you haven’t already primed your cases go ahead and do that now. Now we are going to measure out powder and seat the bullet. When you choose your powder charge make sure you are using a reloading manual don’t go with a load someone told you works for them on the internet if you want to use a load that worked for someone else you still can but you NEED to check it against a manual to make sure it’s not at or above the max load. When you pick your powder charge you should pick in the midrange to low end and work your way up to max load while watching for pressure signs ( we will talk about that in the next article) There are a couple of ways to go when it comes to adding powder and bullets some people like to put powder in all of their cases before seating the bullet others like to put powder in one case then immediately seat the bullet. For the new reloader that is also my recommendation but in the end only you can decide what will work best for you. A few reasons that I recommend it is you have less chance for error and are less likely to miss a case when adding powder resulting in a squib round. And if something comes up when you are in the middle of loading then you also won’t be leaving cases full of powder sitting out. However you choose to add your powder the important thing is consistency if you want an accurate round. For my precision loads I won’t accept anything that’s not within less the 1/10th of a grain of powder.

Now it’s time to seat your bullet this part isn’t hard but adjusting the dies can be time consuming every type of die is a little different in how they adjust but the best advice is to start out way long on C.O.L and adjust it to what your book says slowly until you have it set. Once you have it set most dies stay fairly consistent but for precision loads I still measure every round after I load it.

This next step is optional and and that’s crimping some die sets don’t don’t come with a crimp die and some do. So if you have a crimp die and decide to crimp now is the time. Every brand is different and will have instructions on how to set your crimp die. When it comes to crimping it’s a bit of a controversial subject some people swear by it and others hate it and say it’s a waste of time. To be perfectly honest both sides are right. for a lot of people it can be a waste of time and if you don’t do it right can decrease accuracy. While neck tension can be important to get the most accurate loads we are talking a difference of less than 1/10th MOA most of the time and to be blunt most people reading this and just learning to reload probably won’t be a good enough shot to tell the difference anyway. That type of thing comes into play at benchrest matches. I only crimp my pistol and non precision .223 rounds so take it for what it’s worth.

Well you did it you have your 1st rounds loaded now it’s time to go to the range and see how they shoot. In the next chapter we are going to talk about load development OCW testing and a few other things to do at the range. So stay tuned for part 5

The Science of Reloading: Part Three – What’s Nice to Have

In our last article I covered what you have to have in order to reload and with that you will be able to get started and make quality ammunition but today I am going to cover things that are nice to have and will make the process easier, faster, and more fun to reload. It is worth stating again that this article is geared towards someone that’s new to reloading and just getting started but even the experienced reloader might see something today that they had not thought of. I am not going to go in any particular order today since only you can decide on what you think will suit you the best for your needs.

First let’s talk about ways to pull a bullet apart. At some point durning reloading you will need to pull a bullet and this can be for multiple reasons. It can be anything from you forgot to put a primer in or the primer ended up upside down or sideways, maybe the bullet got seated to deep, or perhaps part of your quality control is to pull a random bullet and triple check the powder charge. Whatever the reason is it will come up that you have a bullet that needs to be pulled so rather than having a container full of useless rounds you can pull them and reuse the components. Bullet pullers come in two common varieties an impact bullet puller or a press mounted bullet puller I personally like the impact pullers because you don’t need to put it in your press, the downside of the impact puller is if you are using a bullet with a plastic ballistic tip 9 times out of 10 it will break the tip and makes it useless. The disadvantage of the press mounted puller is you need a caliber specific par while the impact is universal but it also won’t break a ballistic tip so you have to make that choice.

Next you have case loading blocks these are basically a tray with holes in it that holds brass cases and are great especially for a single stage press. There are dozens of options for loading blocks in every possible price point my favorite is the RCBS universal loading block for $7.59 on amazon but other companies also have caliber specific loading blocks. There are even places to get fancy stained wood blocks or CNC machined aluminum ones and the price goes up to over $100 for the later. I would never spend that much on one but that’s just me.

Another useful thing to have near your bench is Canned air or an air compressor. I have found this to be the best way to keep your bench and press cleaned off because you will inevitably have spilled powder or tumbling media on your bench and it’s hard to get it all off any other way but with a compressor or canned air duster you can blow it off and then sweep or vacuum your floor and have a nice and tidy work area. It doesn’t really matter what size compressor you get even the smallest compressor with a tank will work just fine and most people have one laying around their garage or work shop already.

The next thing that’s useful to have is a spare decapping pin it’s something that you never think of until it breaks and they only cost about 5 dollars but most shops don’t carry them and if it breaks you can’t load anything until you get one shipped to you and waiting on something like that sucks. Its also nice to order it when you order your dies or other supplies so you don’t get stuck with paying shipping on just one decapping pin.

Another thing a lot of people don’t think about having at the bench is a notebook, pens, paper, post it notes, markers and highlighters. There are so many things that they can be used for from the obvious of taking notes to the less obvious of marking dies when you get them set to let you know if they move. Or highlighting your favorite load in your manual you can put the post it notes in with a load of ammo with all the data or use it to mark what is in what bin. It’s really endless what you can use it for and a great thing to have on your bench

A bench mounted or hand priming system is a great tool to have on the bench while all presses have a priming system they can be time consuming and tedious to use while the bench and hand mounted models can let you prime all of your brass in a matter of minutes and they are not very expensive most being under $50 dollars the handhelds are nice so you can watch tv or do other things while you are priming the brass.

A radio or bluetooth speaker for background noise is always a nice addition to your work area as well but if you are using a digital powder dispenser you want to make sure you don’t have anything that has a lot of bass on the same surface as the dispenser or it can affect your results so be mindful of that and enjoy some background music to pass the time while reloading.

A powder drop is another nice thing to have on the bench and if you just use a scale it makes life a lot easier you set it to throw a certain amount of powder some are very accurate but for precision loads I would still use a scale for every powder charge but it can significantly reduce the amount to time to get your powder charges dispensed. Lee also makes a set of powder scoops that can be used the same way and if you use one will come with your die set that will be close to your needed powder charge but the full set costs around 10 dollars and will help with accurate adjustments.

Extra parts and screws for your press. You never know when a screw will come loose or a small part might break it might be an easy fix but without the part it could be a week or more wait and it’s a horrible feeling to be stuck not being able to load because of a 2 dollar part you are waiting to have shipped to you

So now that you know what you NEED from our last article and have an idea of what is nice to have. In our next article we will cover the basic steps in reloading and get you ready to load your first rounds!!!

Going blue! So you want a Dillon Press? What Press is best for you

So you have decided that you want a Dillon press but you are not sure what press to get?
Well here we are going to take a good look at each press. I have loaded hundreds of thousands of rounds commercially on every kind of Dillon machine and also use them for personal loading for everything except precision loads.

So first we have to look at what presses Dillon makes. You have the Square Deal B, the 550, 650 and 1050 each one has an advantage. I would also say “and a disadvantage” but I just can’t bring myself to say that because they are all great presses. There really is no way to go wrong with any dillon press but some just work better than others for certain things. They all come with an unconditional lifetime warranty with the exception of the 1050 and we will go over that more when I cover the 1050.

First and cheapest we have the Square Deal B press with a base price of $404.95. With all the accessories it comes out to $583.75. This is the press I have the least experience with. We had one in the shop I worked at but we didn’t use it often. It is an auto indexing progressive press. The Square Deal B is the one press that Dillon makes that I do actually see having a disadvantage, and they are two fold, but some loaders they may not see it as a disadvantage. First is it uses proprietary dies. Second, you can only load 18 different pistol calibers and no rifle calibers. Now this is fine for some people. If you only shoot pistols and never plan to load rifle or if you have a single stage press for precision or hunting rifles and just want to be able to crank out cheap high quality pistol ammo then this is a great press to look at. All of the dies are also carbide except the 44-40 dies which is a plus for this press.

Next we have the Dillon 550. This is a great press and I have one sitting on my bench as we speak. It is a manual indexing press with 4 stations on the tool head for dies. It will also accommodate up to a 460 weatherby and 338 lapua. Yes, it is perfectly capable of loading precision rounds. Don’t let anyone tell you it’s not. You see a lot of people on the internet say that because it’s not a single stage press. It can give you the same precision. Do you know what all the people who say that have in common? They have never used a Dillon 550!! Now if you want to use it for precision long range loads, I wouldn’t trust the powder drop. This is only because if I am doing precision loads, I measure every powder charge by hand. But i digress. The 550 has a nice starting price of $459.95 and fully decked out it costs $764.60.

Now onto the XL 650. In my opinion, this is the best press to get for home loading. It is a 5 station auto indexing press with automatic case feeder. The 5th station is normally used for a powder check die that will warn you if you over or under charge a cartridge adding an additional safety step. They also have aftermarket bullet feeders that are available to help speed up loading even more. You can easily crank out over 800 rounds an hour with the 650. All you have to do is pull the handle, add bullets and make sure you have powder, primers and brass in the machine. It won’t let you load up to a 460 weatherby or 338 lapua but I also don’t know anyone that’s going to be cranking out hundreds of those calibers an hour either, so that shouldn’t really be a deciding factor in this press. You can load up to a 45-70 and smaller so you can still load all the popular semi auto rifle calibers. Cost is a little more on the 650 and that’s really the only disadvantage it has. It starts at $579.95 and $1,154.55 fully decked out but keep in mind that the that the $579.95 price does NOT include the case feeder and without that you are better off getting the 550 for speed. The case feeder is $224.95

Next you have the super 1050. This thing is a monster. It’s an auto indexing progressive press with a 6 station toolhead. It also has a built in primer pocket swager so if you use military brass or anything with crimped primer pockets this speeds up loading immensely. With a bullet feeder you can crank out 1200+ rounds an hour. It’s a great machine, but it wouldn’t be my first choice for the home reloader unless you already have a 550 or 650 and need to produce a large volume of a single caliber. The reason I say that is, to put it bluntly, it’s a pain in the ass to change calibers and it expensive for conversion kits or quick change kits. The toolhead alone is $200.00. If you buy it, just for example 5.56/.223, because you shoot a lot of carbine matches then it’s great to process military brass on because of the built in swager or maybe you shoot a lot of pistol matches and use a couple of thousand 9mm rounds a week the it would again be a good option, however if you shoot 4 or 5 calibers that you want to reload I wouldnt recomend the 1050 because of cost and time to change calibers. The 1050 costs $1799.95 and comes with everything needed for 1 caliber. The 1050 is also considered a commercial press and only has a one year warranty unlike the rest of the dillon presses.

The last press that dillon makes is the BFR 50 BMG Machine. It’s a manual indexing press that’s designed for the 50 BMG round. It’s built like a tank and is designed to make match grade rounds. It can only be used with the 50 BMG round. But if you shoot a lot of 50 this is the press for you. It’s price is $1,079.95

The Science of Reloading – Part 2 Required Equipment

Welcome back to the science of reloading. If you haven’t already, I highly recommend reading part one as it goes over bench and press selection. Today we are going to discuss all the rest of the things you MUST have in order to begin reloading. We will also cover some of the nicer options that will exceed the bare minimum and make life easier and reloading less tedious and more fun. Once again, this is a beginner’s guide to reloading but some more experienced loaders might see some items they hadn’t thought of before.

You have your press and bench picked out, now what? The first thing is going to be a reloading manual or even better several so you can cross reference loads and data. You can’t do anything without a manual. They tell you everything from what size your brass needs to be trimmed to, how much and what kind of powder to use, how deep to seat your bullet, and some other information. Most of the manuals also give a brief history of each round and some tips on loading. If the manual is published by a bullet manufacturer, they may also give good descriptions of each bullet. So what manual should you get? Well that can be a difficult question especially starting out. The best manual to get is typically the one by the company that makes the bullet that you are using. That can be difficult when you start out since you will want to, and should, try several different bullets. Buying each manufacturer’s book would give you the most accurate information, but could have you buying several books. On the other hand, you could buy a book, like Lymen, that uses multiple different manufacturers bullets. It may not cover every single bullet produces, but gives you more data in one book.This decision is completely up to you. Personally, I like to cross reference and have multiple manuals.

The next thing you need to look at is your die set. You have a few options here depending on what your goals are. The prices on a die set can range from $30 to over $300. So let’s look at the cheaper dies first and work our way up. First we have Lee die sets (we keep seeing that name). They are the cheapest die sets but in some ways rather nice. They are very easy to adjust and they come with some extras you don’t see in other die sets. One of these extras is a shell holder which is very convenient since you have to have one. They also come with a powder scoop (we will talk about them later) and that can be nice if you decide to use one. And the best part is they are normally right around the $30 price point and you can make quality ammunition with them. Next we have the RCBS dies that are of a similar quality of the Lee dies but the seating die is a little bit more precise and consistent. They however don’t come with the shell holder or powder scoop but overall are a slightly better die. The adjustment on the seating dies are slightly more difficult to set but will be more precise. Next, in the same quality category, you have Hornady dies. I have not personally used them, but from talking with people that have they are just as good as the RCBS dies. Next in the the selection of dies you have are match (or competition) die sets. The biggest thing with them is that they have more precise adjustments and stricter tolerances than the regular dies. Next we will talk about redding competition dies they are one of the best die sets you can get but, much like the foster in our last article, they come at a price which is anywhere from $250 up to $350 per set depending on caliber. So what makes them worth so much more you ask? Well the biggest thing is the micrometer on the seating die that you can adjust accurately to .001” it also comes with a neck sizing die that allows you to adjust neck tension. This can be important during load development for extreme precision.

The next thing is case lube. If you are resizing rifle brass you have to have case lube or you are going to have a really bad day when you get a case stuck in your sizing die (I could write a whole article just on that subject). You have a lot of options for this one. There are lube pads that some people like to use where you apply lube to the pad and the roll the brass on it. There is also lube that you put on your finger then put it on the case. I’m not a fan of this method because if you use too much lube you can get dents in your case. Then there is spray lube method which is my personal favorite. It lets you put several cases into a container spray them and shake them around then you are ready to size all of them. I have used both Hornady and Dillon spray lubes and they both work great. The Hornady is in an aerosol can while the Dillon is in a regular spray bottle. How you lube your cases really just comes down to personal preference, but just remember even though you can get small dents in the cases, as with most non reloading applications, too much lube is better than not enough….

The next must have is going to be your scale. You can’t do anything without a scale. You need a mechanical scale on your bench!!! Yes they do make digital scales and I personally use one but a digital scale can fail causing serious injury or death!!! Not to mention, scales need to be calibrated regularly. Every company has a beam scale Lee, RCBS, Dillon, ECT… and it doesn’t really matter scale you go with. The Lee is 26 bucks on amazon and the dillon is over $100 with the others in between. My friend’s Lee is just as accurate as my Dillon it really just comes down to the way you set them up. I like the ease of use with the Dillon over the Lee. In reality, it just comes to personal preference and what you can afford. Now onto digital scales. You have a lot of options here. You have scales that are just a scale, like the one from Hornady which you can get for around $35 and it’s a lot faster than a beam scale for actually loading rounds. Lymen makes one that has a powder trickler built into it so you can get to exactly the amount of powder you want and that’s about $115. Then you have the auto powder dispensers. This is what I personally use for precision loads. They are great because all you do is tell it what charge you want and hit a button and it will measure out what you want. The three major ones are the RCBS, the Lymen, and the Hornady. They all cost between $200 and $300 I have personally used the Lymen and RCBS and can’t say I prefer one over the other, but the Lymen is a little cheaper. I have seen mixed reviews on the Hornady, but people seem happy for the most part with them. But if you can afford one I recommend it! LRS- Pro Tip#2 If you can’t afford one, then get a regular digital scale and a powder thrower. Throw a charge close to what you want and then use the trickler to get you exact without spending all the time on a beam scale to get it exact…

The next thing you will need is a powder trickler (unless you get the auto powder dispenser). They are available from a number of companies and they all seem to work well I have an RCBS and really like it but I won’t recommend one over the other.

The next thing you need is a micrometer so you can measure your cases so you know if you need to trim them and case overall length so you know that you have your bullet seated properly. I would recommend that you avoid the digital ones and make sure you get one that can measure to .001”. The reason I say avoid digital is they can lose accuracy if dropped or if their battery gets low.

If you are loading rifle ammunition you are going to need a trimmer. I use an RCBS trimmer it works very well and can be set to your desired trim length. Once it’s set, just turn the trimmer until it stops and you are good to go. All the other major brands make a similar trimmer with a similar design. I haven’t used them but I also have never seen anyone talking bad about them. They do, however, all seem to be in the same price range and most people just go with RCBS. the other option is a press mounted dillon electric trimmer they are nice for bulk brass prep on a progressive press but at close to $500 for a full set up with trimmer and trim die, it’s really not worth it for precision loading. LRS-Pro Tip # 3 On the RCBS trimmer you can remove the handle and attach a drill to give yourself a cheap electric trimmer

Now that you have your trimmer. You need to clean up that trimmed brass before you can size it in your new dies. You need a couple of things for this. First, you need to do some case prep to clean up the edges of the brass and get rid of the sharp edges and brass shavings. This can be accomplished with hand tools such as the Lymen case prep multi tool or the RCBS deburring tool. They are both good options and cost under 20 bucks. Or you have case prep stations which are the electric versions. Lymen, RCBS and Hornady all make them and they run between $75-$150. They are great if you are prepping a lot of brass or if it hurts your hands to use the hand tools. They also save time.

So now that your case is trimmed and deburred. You need a way to clean the brass. This comes in three forms: a dry vibratory tumbler, a wet tumbler, and ultrasonic cleaners. The most common way people clean brass is with a dry vibratory tumbler with either ground up walnuts or corn cob media and a splash of some kind of cleaning agent. I like Nufinish car polish but you have other options. Some media is also sold with polish embedded in it already. I personally don’t use that type because it’s a lot cheaper to use Nufinish and I load 1000-5000 rounds a week (no not all precision loads). For some, the pre-embedded is an easy option that does work. You also have the option to not add anything to the media at all. It just depends on how shiny you want your brass. Tumblers are another Item that it really doesn’t matter what brand you use. Just shop around for the budget and size that works best for you. Some do feature an on/off switch while some you have to just unplug or plug in so if that’s something you are concerned about keep an eye on that. The next option is wet tumbling. I’m personally not a big fan of it because I like to be able to pull my brass out of the tumbler and immediately start to load it, but then I load a lot of rounds. Some people do small batches where they might tumble it one day and not load it for a couple of day after the brass dries so wet tumbling might be an option and there is no question that it gets the brass shinier than a vibratory tumbler. The way they work is you mix a cleaning and polishing agent with water (and there are lots of recipes online for this so if you go with a wet tumbler you will find as many things to add as you will people with a wet tumbler) along with stainless steel pins and then the brass is rolled around in a drum with them. The biggest thing with wet tumbling is to remember to make sure your brass is completely dry or you will get misfires. A lot of people will put them on cookie sheets in the oven on a low temperature to help dry them faster. Then you have ultrasonic cleaners. I have never used one and don’t know many people that do just for the fact that they are small only holding a very limited amount of brass and expensive for the amount of brass you can clean with them.

A set of hand tools is another necessity to have around the bench. You will need wrenches and allen keys for many different things from adjusting your dies to setting up your trimmer to putting your press together. If you have RCBS dies you will need a small screwdriver to adjust them and the allen wrench to set the lock ring. Sometimes something will work loose on the press and you will need to tighten it so you want the right tools handy on the bench when you need them. The exact tools you will need will depend on what press and dies you end up getting. No bench is complete without at least a crescent wrench, a set of screw drivers, and a set of allen keys

So this concludes the REQUIRED items for reloading. We have gone over reloading manuals, die sets, micrometers, trimmers, scales, tricklers, and how to clean your brass along with giving you a few different options for each item and a few tips as well. Look out for our next article on useful things for your bench that might not be required but makes life a lot easier.

The Science Behind Reloading: Part 1- Introduction

Since you are reading this page chances are, you want to shoot long range precision. So that’s what this series is going to focus on. We are going to discuss everything from your reloading bench to match quality ammunition and everything needed to accomplish it. For the purpose of this series we are going to assume that you have never reloaded before. So, if you are an experienced reloader you will probably want to stay tuned for our upcoming articles on advanced reloading techniques, however, if you feel like being refreshed on the subject, please feel free to continue on!

 

The first thing you need to decide on, is where you are going to be loading and what bench you are going to use. You need a sturdy bench because of the force that you will be putting on your press and, you will also want to look at the size of the desired bench. A lot of factors go into picking the best size bench, the most important factor of determining size is the space you have available for a reloading bench. My recommendation is to get the largest bench that you can fit in your available area. It might seem like to much space at first but as time goes by, you will more than likely accumulate lots of supplies and even additional presses. LRS-Pro Tip #1: It’s also helpful to have a pegboard or shelves on the bench as well as cabinet and storage space near by to store supplies and equipment when not in use. Another useful thing to have nearby, or on the bench, are stacking storage bins. The bins can be used for many things, from completed bullet storage to homes for tools and spare parts for your press and everything in between.

 

Next, you need to decide on your press. First you have to decide on the type of press that’s best for you.There are a few things you need to take into account when picking a press type, some of these factors are: your personal budget, the number of rounds you plan to load, and your skill level, as you become more experienced you may want to upgrade or even add a press or two.

 

There are three basic types of presses; the single stage, the turret, and the progressive. For right now, I will only discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the single stage press, however, in later articles I will discuss the advantages, disadvantages, and differences of the other two presses listed above.

 

The single stage press is just like it sounds, it can hold one die at a time. It is also the cheapest of the three styles of press. It gives the greatest degree of control over the rounds you load, since you have to handle each individual round at each step of the loading process. Because of this, the single stage press is used by many people (even those who have been loading for YEARS) for precision rifle loading even if they have other, speedier, types of presses.

 

Of course there are several different brands of single stage press to include: Lee, Lymen, Redding, RCBS, and Forster co ax. The Lee is the cheapest of the single stage presses and it is a capable press and can be had for under $100. The Lee is a good press for starting out, it is geared towards those who are looking to make hunting loads, those who aren’t precision loading throughout the year, or hobbyists looking to spend some time away from the computer.  I would say that based on the quality of the ammo capable of being produced by the press and a good die set (we will talk about dies later), that the Lee is a capable press for some competition shooting, though maybe not the best choice for primarily competition ammunition (would not recommend for bench rest shooting).

 

Next, you have Lymen, Redding, and RCBS presses. All are a step up from the Lee, still affordable and of comparable quality to each other, all three sit at a $200 – $300 price point. In comparison to the Lee press, they all have better quality castings, less plastic parts, and better quality hardware then the Lee press. They also have better quality rams (the ram being the part of the press the case sits on and moves up to meet the die) then the Lee, allowing for a more consistent production of ammunition. From my personal experience and from conversations that I have had with other seasoned precision loaders, the RCBS seems to be the gold standard for single stage presses and the most popular single stage press, possibly the most popular press period. All the are capable of producing good quality ammunition that will perform well in competition, but the RCBS is not the best, that honor goes to the Foster co ax by a long margin. All the presses we have talked about previous to the Foster co ax use very similar designs, additionally, the quality and small nuances are all that separate the Lyman, Redding, and RCBS presses. Now comes the Foster, it has a completely different design that allows for better and more even and consistent pressure on the ram then the other presses are capable of. The Foster also has a unique system to hold the dies that makes them truly quick change. Once set the dies?? all you need to do is verify that nothing has changed from the last time you set them so you don’t have to spend time adjusting the dies. It does come at a cost however, being twice the price of an RCBS the Foster co ax weighs in at $500 making it the most expensive single stage presses on the market. It is at this moment that the question becomes, is it worth the cost? Well, It really just depends on what you are trying to do. If you just shoot a couple times a year, use the presses to go hunting with, or are just a hobbyist that enjoys precision. Then you probably will not want to be looking into the Foster co ax for your precision loading needs. But, if you are getting into any competition shooting, like benchrest shooting, or are looking to crank out a large amount of rounds, then it is absolutely worth every penny.
So in conclusion, we have talked about getting your bench and press. Today we discussed the importance of a larger bench, for organization of course, then dove into the facts about single stage presses, and discussed the differences between the single stage presses available on the market. In the coming weeks we will talk about what other equipment and supplies you will need and how to load ammunition, as well as, load development. We will also talk about the other types of presses and be on the lookout for more LRS-Pro tips! So stay tuned for the next article on the science of reloading.